PART I


After burning out in Yellowstone, I decided to take a vacation from my vacation.   The only place to get respite from these United States was in our snowy neighbor to the north: Canada.  I drove toward the Prince of Wales hotel in the Watertown-Glacier International Peace Park that crosses the longest undefended border in the world.

Everything I know about Canada I learned from South Park.  As such, I expected the Canadians to be a jolly, friendly, if somewhat naive race of people with square, flapping heads living in perpetual winter.

``Hello,'' I said to the border patrol woman as I drove into the crossing point.

``Where are you going today, Sir?''

She didn't look friendly or naive.  She didn't have a flapping square head.

``Watertown.  On vacation,'' I told her.

``Do you have a reservation at the hotel?''

``Yes.''

She typed at her computer and brought up a CCTV feed of my car.

``This looks like a new car,'' she said.

``Yes,'' I said, trying to sound cheerful, but faltering.

``What are you doing in a new car with New York plates all the way here in Canada?''

Not sure why this drew suspicion, I answered: ``It's my father's car.''

``That isn't what I asked,'' she said, aiming her reflective cop glasses at me.

I broke, as any man would under the lightest interrogation, and all the details of the road trip spilled from me.

``--so you live in New York?''  she interrupted.

Now I knew I was in trouble.  I would tell her that I live in London and she would discover my dual citizenship.  While my Irish citizenship allows me to work in England -- and I deeply appreciate it for that -- it also causes me no end of trouble with government officials and airline staff.

``Let me see your Irish passport,'' she said.

``I don't have it.''

``Why not?''

``Well, I'm an American citizen so I only need a driver's license to travel to Canada.''

Wrong answer.  Nothing makes police officers angrier than when you know the rules.

``Pull your car over Sir, and see the officer in that building,'' she said to me.

``Johnny,'' she spoke into her radio.  ``I've got one for you.''


* * *


I sat in an interrogation room with a mustachioed border cop (also not square headed) playing a fun game with him called `tell me everything about your life.'  His questions came quickly:

``What's you name?''

``What's your occupation?''

``What's your income?''

``Where do you live?''

``Where did you live before that?''

``Before that?''

``Before that?''

``What are you doing in Canada?''

``Where are you going?''

``Are there any illegal substances in your car?''

``Are you sure?''

``Really sure?''

``Super-duper-no-foolsies sure?''

``What foreign countries have you visited in the past your-entire-life?''

``Turkey?  China?  Why would you go there?''

``Have you ever consorted with terrorists?''

``Do you plan to?''

``Have you ever consorted with communists?''

``Know anyone who does?''

``Have you ever committed a thought crime?''

``Do I look good with this mustache?''

To add to the fun he also made editorial remarks about the details of my life, such as when he discovered my occupation.

``Teacher, eh?  How can you afford to travel to Canada then?''

I wanted to point out the relative weakness of this provincial colony's economy when compared to the centre of her Royal Majesty's empire, and the exchange rate that resulted, but I'd gotten in enough trouble already, so I just shrugged.

He wrote everything I told him down, doubtless to be filed away in a folder titled Trouble Making Dual Nationalists.

Twenty minutes later when he'd satisfied his curiosity he gave me instructions.

``Drive your car into hanger number 2.''

``Kate,'' he said into his radio.  ``I've got one for you.''


* * *


I drove into what looked like an old airplane warehouse.  In the middle stood three officers wearing blue surgical gloves.

``Turn off the engine.''

``Leave everything in the car.''

``Give us the keys.''

``Is there anything is this car we should know about?''

``Please wait in the next room.''

A female officer lead me to a glass holding cell of sorts with a row of chairs where I could watch as the two male officers pulled the car apart.  They took every item of mine out and placed it on a table for further inspection.  Out came my bags, all my belongings and even the seat cushions.  They pulled open panels in the car that I didn't know existed.  Most worryingly, they opened the hood and took out important-looking pieces of equipment.  One officer disappeared under the car doing who-knows-what to the underbelly.  Even though Pria and I had fought the previous day, I didn't like seeing her handled this way.

The girlcop opened my laptop, frowned, then brought it into the holding cell.

``Sir, could you log onto your computer?''

`Noelani' thinks my stance on computer security is a little... paranoid.  I have a password to turn on the computer and stop the screen saver.  I refuse to let anyone use my account.  Whenever I leave the computer, even to go to the bathroom in my own home, I turn on the password protection.  When Noelani (or anyone) asks to check their email I log them into a separate, locked-down, non-administrator guest account.  This is always met with eye rolls.

``What do you think I'm going to do?''  Noelani asks.

That is not the point.  Everything important to me is in that computer.  Asking to use my personal account is like asking to look into my soul.

The girlcop stood with my laptop open in her hands.  I've felt less vulnerable when a doctor clutches my testicles.

``Will you log on?''

I hesitated.

The one time I showed Noelani some files in my computer (with my hands on the computer at all times) she remarked ``Oh, so this is where all your neuroses live.''

It is true.  The setup on my account has more than a touch of the obsessive compulsive about it.  Files are stored in directories ten levels deep, then given names that include all relevant meta-data.  The file for this journal is: \Users\Wellington Alexander Grey\filing cabnet\projects\webpages\WellingtonGrey Net\journal\in progress\roadtrip\smuggling terrorist propaganda across the canadian border.tex
I recognize this might be a little overboard.  I also keep every email I've ever written or received, photo ever taken, IM conversation had, financial transaction completed, website visited, article read or thought had. 

Letting someone look though there would be like letting someone open the top of my head and poke around in the physical material of my brain -- beyond an issue of trust.

``Sir, are you going to open this computer?''

I stalled for time.  ``What are you looking for, exactly?''

``Oh, the usual: child porn, money laundering, terrorist propaganda.''

Only a few days before, after seeing the jittery police of Cody, I watched a video from the ACLU on police searches and how to handle them.  The short answer is that police are tricksy and will try to get you to consent to searches they have no legal right to perform to by asking `may I' questions.  `May I open the trunk of your car?' `May I come inside your house?'  `May I perform a body cavity search?'  The magic phrase to repeat to the police is: ``I do not consent to any searches, officer.'' 

However, that only works in America.  The ACLU's advice for crossing borders was less helpful, essentially saying: `Bend over.'

``Sir?''

I bent over and typed my password.
 







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